venerdì, gennaio 04, 2008

'Un turista nel Golfo - August von Goethe'

Nel 1830, sulle orme del nonno Johann Caspar e su quelle del celebre padre Johann Wolfgang, August von Goethe non solo si recò in Italia visitando alcune tra le principali città del nostro Paese, ma tenne anche lui un diario di viaggio, che inviava diligentemente al genitore, a Weimar, un po' per volta, a puntate, come un romanzo d'appendice. Rimasto inedito fino alle soglie del 2000, In viaggio verso il Sud (Auf einer Reise nach Süd) è stato pubblicato dalla casa editrice Hanser grazie all'impegno di due studiosi tedeschi che hanno portato alla luce tutte le annotazioni di August.

Un altro studioso, stavolta italiano, esamina soprattutto il soggiorno spezzino del figlio di Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. Stiamo parlando di Alberto Scaramuccia, autore di diversi libri sulla sua città natìa che indagano approfonditamente sullo sviluppo socio-politico della provincia ligure fin dall'Ottocento.



Alberto Scaramuccia
Un turista nel Golfo - August von Goethe

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Chi è l'autore

Alberto Scaramuccia, nato alla Spezia nel 1947, si è laureato in lettere con la lode all'Università di Pisa nell'anno accademico 1969/70 discutendo una tesi, pubblicata dall'Accademia della Crusca, su un umanista da lui scoperto. Ha insegnato fino a pochi anni fa. I suoi interessi si rivolgono alla storia locale, vista come momento fondante dell'identità collettiva; alla produzione informatica (ha pubblicato 3 cd-rom di storia locale per un totale di 13 prodotti fra cui l'ampia ed articolata Storia della Spezia); ai moderni modi del comunicare. Un suo lavoro su quest'ultima tematica (La scrittura nel mondo globale) è stato pubblicato negli atti di un convegno di studio organizzato dall'Università di Ferrara.

A questo indirizzo è presente un elenco dei libri da lui pubblicati.

E questo è l'URL delle Edizioni Cinque Terre.


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Dei saggi di Alberto Scaramuccia, i più famosi sono forse La Spezia ai tempi del colera e La Spezia e l'Arsenale.
Ma torniamo ad August von Goethe.

Non mancano, in questo viaggio italiano di August (intrapreso insieme a Eckermann, il fido segretario paterno), incidenti e tragedia finale: il soggiorno nel Belpaese di Goethe junior si concluse infatti con la sua morte (quanto improvvisa?) avvenuta a Roma e dovuta apparentemente a cirrosi epatica. Quest'ultima è una tesi sostenuta da svariati storici; ma, leggendo il libro di Scaramuccia, siamo stati assillati da un dubbio. Al termine del suo soggiorno spezzino, infatti, August von Goethe va a visitare il lazzaretto di Varignano. E su questa visita il quarantunenne figlio di un "Übervater" (ovvero di un Superuomo nelle vesti di genitore) si dilunga ampiamente in una delle sue lettere-diario.
"... l'accurata descrizione [del Lazzaretto] che August stende è ricca di informazioni per noi: sia sulla struttura, che sul suo funzionamento", scrive Alberto Scaramuccia.
Sembra che nel Lazzaretto regnassero misure di protezione eccezionali per i visitatori e, ovviamente, per chi vi lavorava. Ma l'autore del saggio ci tiene a relativizzare: "Allora, certo, le conoscenze [medico-igieniche] erano quelle che erano: siamo pur sempre nei pressi degli anni di Donna Prassede e di Don Ferrante..."
Non è ipotizzabile, dunque, che al lazzaretto di Varignano August contrasse, se non la peste, qualche altra infezione ugualmente letale?

Sono tante le considerazioni che si possono ricavare da Un turista nel Golfo - August von Goethe. Come si conviene a ogni lavoro di ricerca serio e ben calibrato, Scaramuccia non si limita a descrivere fatti attinenti al solo territorio ligure, bensì, allargando il discorso all'ambito europeo - e in particolare alla Germania -, ricollega il "microevento" del soggiorno spezzino di August von Goethe al panorama storico della fine del XVIII secolo. L'ultima, vasta parte del libro, che reca il titolo "Guerrieri e Fortilizi", abbraccia un periodo che va dagli antichi Romani fino ad arrivare a un altro figlio di un forse troppo illustre padre: Klaus Mann; e contiene alcune pagine altrettanto interessanti sulla "vacanza" rivierasca di Rosa Luxemburg.

In Italia, August - torniamo a lui perché è lui che rappresenta il fulcro di questo saggio - ha una fretta ossessiva di vedere e conoscere che è tipica dei tempi moderni. Come ogni turista che va in giro a osservare le bellezze del nostro Paese (ma anche le particolarità meno belle, quelle che, principalmente a un nordeuropeo di quei tempi, dovevano apparire a dir poco esoticamente strambe), non può assorbire ogni cosa, naturalmente. Ma, come risulta chiaro anche da questa sua tappa in "Sprugolandia" (nome che Scaramuccia si è divertito a forgiare mutuandolo da Sprugola, un corso d'acqua), c'è una grande irrequietezza in lui: l'ansia tipica di chi deve assolvere per forza a un compito imposto dalla famiglia. August riesce a dominare quest'ansia solo bevendo un "quartino" a tutte le ore...

August von Goethe morì lasciando moglie e tre bambini. Il suo diario di viaggio, che il padre aveva scorso frettolosamente con una mezza idea di pubblicarlo, venne poi messo definitivamente da parte per volere dello stesso autore del Faust.



La tomba nel "Cimitero acattolico" a Roma


Alberto Scaramuccia
Un turista nel Golfo - August von Goethe
Edizioni Cinque Terre, pagg. 192; € 12,00.

Il libro, pubblicato nella primavera 2005 nella collana di saggistica "Vernazza", è tuttora reperibile presso la casa editrice.

Leggi la prefazione
Leggi il primo capitolo

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